Bangkok

Let me drop you into the middle of Bangkok. You step off the Skytrain (the BTS, modern and ice-cold) and down to the street: the heat hugs you, the smell of grilled skewers drifts from a sidewalk stall, a tuk-tuk honks, and above it all a golden temple shares the skyline with glass towers. Within a hundred meters, you eat the best pad thai of your life for a dollar, have a drink on a 50th-floor rooftop and pray in a 200-year-old temple. Bangkok is chaos and comfort in the same breath: intense, delicious, and surprisingly easy to live in.

Bangkok in 30 seconds

It’s the capital of Thailand and one of Asia’s great hubs: huge, vibrant and full of contrasts. It has the best street food on the planet, excellent public transport (BTS and metro), international-standard hospitals and an airport that takes you cheaply to any corner of the continent. It’s pricier and busier than Chiang Mai, but delivers metropolis life at a friendly price.

Where to stay, walking you through the neighborhoods

Sukhumvit (Thonglor, Ekkamai, Phrom Phong): the expat and nomad heart. Cafés, coworkings, restaurants from all over, gyms and nightlife, all linked to the BTS. Practical and modern, the most common choice for newcomers.

Ari: a local, hip neighborhood, with charming cafés, tree-lined streets and less tourism. The pick for anyone who wants a neighborhood feel without giving up convenience.

Silom / Sathorn: the financial district, by the river, with rooftops, hotels and a more corporate feel by day, lively at night.

Riverside / Old City (Rattanakosin): near the great temples and the Chao Phraya River, more historic and touristy. Charming, but farther from the BTS.

The must-dos, what to do

• Grand Palace + Wat Pho + Wat Arun: the trio of iconic temples, side by side in the Old City. Go early and dressed respectfully (shoulders and knees covered).
• Chatuchak Market: one of the biggest weekend markets in the world; everything from crafts to food, in an endless maze.
• Rooftop bars: Bangkok is the world capital of rooftop bars; a drink with the city glittering at your feet is a must.
• Street-food tour in Chinatown (Yaowarat): at night, a festival of stalls and frying; come hungry.
• Canal (khlong) boat ride: the “Venice of the East” still lives in the canals; a quieter side of the city.
• Day trip to Ayutthaya: the ruins of the old capital, an hour by train.

The food, the best street food in the world

No exaggeration: for many, Bangkok has the best street food on the planet, there are even Michelin-starred sidewalk stalls. The pad thai, the boat noodles, the som tam (spicy papaya salad), the mango sticky rice, the khao man gai (chicken with rice)… all fresh, cheap and made to order. Save the nights for Chinatown and the mornings for the markets. Eating here is a daily adventure, and one of the cheapest of your life.

A perfect day in Bangkok

Breakfast at a hip Ari café, a morning of work at a coworking with fast fiber. For lunch, boat noodles at a stall beside the canal. In the afternoon, the BTS takes you to a temple or an ice-cold mall to escape the heat. At dusk, a rooftop to watch the sun drop between the towers. At night, Chinatown: smoke, neon lights, frying and cold beer. You head home by metro, exhausted and enchanted, already planning the next day.

What it costs and the practical stuff

You live well on US$ 1,070 to 1,820 a month: a modern apartment near the BTS costs US$ 400 to 700, eating on the street costs a couple of dollars, and public transport is excellent. Bangkok is also one of the best places in the world for healthcare: hospitals like Bumrungrad are an international reference at prices far below Western ones.

Getting around

• BTS (Skytrain) and MRT (metro): modern, cold and punctual; the best way to move around.
• Grab / Bolt: cheap ride apps for stretches off the train.
• River and canal boats: fast and cheap for the historic side.
• Tuk-tuk: fun for short hops (agree the price first).

Is Bangkok worth living in?

If you want a big city, convenience, incredible food and flight connections: with first-world healthcare and a friendly cost, Bangkok is unbeatable. It’s more intense and pricey than Chiang Mai, but delivers metropolis life at a fraction of Western prices. Ideal for anyone who loves urban energy.

Bangkok is one of the cities in the Thailand guide, where you’ll find the visas (including the 5-year DTV), the taxes and the other cities.